Sunday, June 20, 2010

The Dim Sum Party, and so much more....

Let me begin by saying that, although it resembles one, this was NOT a Deathmatch. A few weeks ago I decided to throw together what I promised would be the last Chinese-themed dinner party before I moved on to bastardizing cuisine from another Asian country. This was the last hurrah…


I will also say that Mr. Panda, to quote Bill Medley and Jennifer Warnes from Dirty Dancing, “had the time of his life,” as you will see depicted throughout this post.



Lauren and Aaron were given the task of decorating the house in a “sexy communist” theme, and they succeeded with flying colors (actually, pretty much just red). I had been at work while they were setting up the night before, so when I arrived home to Mr. Panda surrounded by “Communist Funtown,” it was fairly overwhelming.




Because the theme was Dim Sum, I had scheduled the party to start at noon. Of course, no one took me seriously and everything got going around 3:30. In a desperate attempt to preserve the tradition of Dim Sum, and mask the fact that we’re raging alcoholics, Dietz and I purchased fourteen different kinds of tea for everyone to taste- and we only ended up brewing one. Instead we plowed through case after case of wine, a bottle of bourbon, a half gallon of tequila, and countless beers – just like we always do.




We streamed in a “top 40” radio station from China to enhance the mood, and it turns out that people still listen to the Backstreet Boys over there.
When people arrived I greeted them with course number one, Bak Kut Teh soup. This is a traditional Chinese breakfast dish usually consisting of a heavily spiced broth and several different parts of the pig. I chose to just serve broth garnished with cilantro as a meaty beverage designed to coat your stomach for some serious drinking.




Next up was Otis & Marya, who made their own Lup Cheong sausage and did a version of “pigs in a blanket” with steamed dough wrappers. Both a Chinese ketchup and mustard condiment were served alongside. You'll also notice Kate, Gemma, and Alysia starting to get pretty friendly with Mr. Panda...




Leslie, who had per usual gone over the top in helping with party preparations, was next with deep fried shrimp toasts. They were delicious and heavy enough to keep people satisfied for awhile, which was good because now it was Dietz’s turn in the kitchen for what is lovingly referred to as ‘the Congee hour.”




In his usual fashion Dietz had chosen to prepare three different styles of congee with countless garnishes, an enormously time-consuming undertaking right in the middle of the party. Knowing how he works I cleared everyone out of the kitchen and declared it to be a “no fly zone” until the congee hour was over.




During this period, Karl gets the grill going for his BBQ ribs and we start handing around the half gallon of Sauza Hornitos that Gemma and Josh had rolled in with. After destroying the ribs, which were fucking awesome, congee madness was still monopolizing all four of the stove burners, so we fire up the steamer on the grill.




Next up is Stephen with spicy lemongrass pork sausage and sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaf. This was a very well balanced dish, and I felt bad because just as he finished and started serving, the congee circus was also complete, accompanied by a presentation from Dietz on what the fuck to do with what.




The three kinds of congee were traditional, green mung bean, and black rice with red dates. They were served with a multitude of condiments, including a nuclear but delicious homemade sambal.






Melissa, who is an actual Asian person, was consulted on each dish, and knowing what was being served next I tried to distract her by (apparently, I don’t remember this that well…) licking her boot, because the next course was “Dim Sum Americana.”




Kate and Josh had created what would probably be the bane of any Chinese person’s existence: dumplings filled, separately, with Cheese Wiz, red hot dog, and pimento & ham. They were delicious and yet so wrong in so many ways, which is why I love everything these two come up with for pretty much fucking anything.




At this point Masa shows up and upon being greeted with a cheesy dumpling, realizes he better get drinking to catch up with everyone. It seemed like a good time to have Melissa start on her dish, pan-fried daikon rice cakes, to show him that we did, in fact, have some authentic food to offer. I was getting full, but these were so good I had two servings against my better judgment, of which I have none anyway.






Outside Pieper was steaming up his pig’s head soup dumplings, which were delicious even though they started to fall apart. Honestly, I’ve never made soup dumplings and neither had he, so doing it for the first time for 35 people was quite a challenge.




At this point I get “Iced.”





Courtney finally gets a stove burner and starts searing her duck dumplings. The bottle of Tequila is now gone, and the music is getting louder and louder. Knowing that my palate isn’t long for the world, Dietz and I open two bottles of Nicolas Joly Savennieres, just to say we had something ridiculous. It is one of the funkier wines I’ve drunk in a while, and it was a nice break from slaughtering tequila and vinho verde.




Joel, the only man I know who can pull of salmon-colored shorts, steps up and serves his honey BBQ pork-stuffed puff pastry. These are outrageously delicious, and I’m pissed I didn’t stash a few away for breakfast. The Chinese radio has officially been jettisoned in favor of Heidi as DJ, and things start to go downhill fast.




One of the most amazing moments of the party occurs when I decide to Ice Nolan with a green apple Smirnoff I had in the fridge (the link will explain a lot). Gemma agrees to help, puts it in her dress, and asks Nolan for “assistance.” Nolan pulls his pant leg up to reveal a blueberry Smirnoff duct taped to his leg and officially “ice blocks” Gemma. What made me wonder is just how long he was going to walk around with an Ice taped to his leg - something tells me he would have gone all night.




With the icing out of the way, Nolan begins frying his shrimp balls to serve with a coriander dipping sauce and Szechuan pepper salt. I’m sure at this point everyone is tired of the sound of my voice, but I continue to entertain the entire group from the top of the stairs.






Brad just barely gets his egg custard served before the dance party erupts. As I enter the living room Joel is on the coffee table dancing to Lady GaGa so I decide to join him. Mr. Panda, probably a little sore now, keeps getting it hard as everybody gets in on the fun. I remember lying on my stairs and slugging out of a bottle of Woodford’s Reserve Bourbon in between songs,





I can tell you that somehow I ended up on a couch that wasn't located in my house, and Mr. Panda was there - I can tell you that much. Once I figured out where I was I decided to leave Mr. Panda behind and come back for him, because I was way too out of it to explain the story to a cab driver.

After pissing off the gas station attendant by paying for a bottle of water with a hundred dollar bill, I get a taxi home and gather up the rentals (glasses, tablecloths, etc.) to return to One-Stop Party Shop before my hangover really kicks in. I then proceed to have an epic hangover meal at Po' Boys & Pickles, and collapse into a deep sleep until work starts at 5.


For a less Panda-Centric account, go to Johnny D's Egullet post here.



All photos by Jessica Joseph & John Dennison.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Miyake Staff Meals Part Two


Staff Meal continues to be a big deal at Miyake, where every night we start brainstorming the beginning of the shift as to what we'll be eating. Wine pairing is optional...













Monday, May 24, 2010

Ten Things to Eat in Portland 2010


Last year I published a list of my go-to foods in Portland when I had no patience to be disappointed. Here is the revised version, which I would like to say is for 2010 but is more reflective of this particular week and is subject to change. You’ll notice that several of the restaurants are the same from the 2009 list, I’ve just moved on to different items. You also may think that I have no idea what I’m talking about, which I’m comfortable with, which is why i've included this picture of myself to boost my credibility. As Billy Dee Williams says, this list "Works Every Time."

1. Fried Shrimp Po’ Boy, Gumbo, and a Macaroon – Po’ Boys & Pickles (1124 Forest Ave. 207-518-9735)

This is probably my new favorite lunch spot in the Portland area, which is why I had to list an entire meal there rather than just one thing. They really get it right, down to the Crystal brand hot sauce, Abita beer, and Zapps potato chips. After the shrimp sandwich I’d recommend trying the others in this order: Pulled pork, muffaletta, fried oyster, the Reggie (meatloaf), cheeseburger, and the Debris (roast beef). The Gumbo is the best around and the accompanying biscuit is damn near perfect. Also, get a fucking Macaroon – trust me.

2. Rock Shrimp Appetizer – Kon Asian Bistro (1140 Brighton Ave. 207-874-0000)

Tempura fried shrimp doused in a spicy mayo sauce that I could probably eat damn near every day. Sure, Kon has several shortcomings on the menu, but these never disappoint, along with the Peking duck wrappers.

3. BBQ Beef Banh Mi Sandwich – Kim’s Sandwich Cafe (261 St. John’s St. 207-774-7165)

These simply can’t be beat, especially for 2.75. I know this is old news to many, but just in case you haven’t tried them….

4. Caramelized Pork with Lemongrass – Thanh Thanh 2 (782 Forest Ave. 207-828-1114)
Though I enjoy the Pho more at Saigon, Thanh Thanh still has a few items that can’t be beat, such as this dish along with the rare beef salad and fresh spring rolls.

5. Beef Pho – Saigon (795 Forest Ave. 207-874-6666)

I love the aromatic broth, the sawtooth herb, the sate paste, the meatballs, the noodles, and the fact that they open, and serve beer, at 9:00 a.m. The crispy dumplings with ginger and scallion make a great starter as well.

6. Chili-Cheese Dog – Rosie’s (330 Fore St. 207-772-5656)

Both Rosie’s and Ruski’s have kick-ass hot dogs, and when you add Rosie’s chili you’ve got a perfect (nap-inducing) hangover helper.

7. Maine Hamayaki – Miyake (129 Spring St. 207-871-9170)

Quite possibly one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Lobster, crab, and scallop over sushi rice, covered with kewpie mayonnaise, broiled, and then topped with eel sauce, sansho pepper, and truffle oil. If you’ve never tried this, you’re fucking crazy.

8. Lamb with Ceylonese Korma Sauce – Haggarty’s (849 Forest Ave. 207-761-8222)

Nothing better than a night at home, getting this delivered with an order of garlic naan, slugging three bottles of cheap red wine, and watching Rocky III and IV consecutively.

9. Menudo – Tu Casa (70 Washington Ave. 207-828-4971)

Sunday morning got several times more exciting the day I found out about this tripey deliciousness. Like I said, only on Sundays and get there early, it goes fast. The good news is that if you do miss it, you can still order the Enchiladas Salvadorenas with tongue.

10. The Sicilian Slab – Miccuci’s (45 India St. 207-775-1854)

I love Stephen Lanzalotta’s breads, so when you mix his baking with a tomato sauce that reminds me of the one my grandmother used to make, I’m happy. While you're there, pick up some Luna bread to make ridiculous burgers at home.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

What My Last Day on Earth Would Be Like, As Of Right Now....

While reviewing some material from "Deathmatch: Last Meal" today, I came upon my description of what my last meal, or day of meals, on earth would be and realized that that over a year it has already changed significantly. I decided to update this experience here, and, as I did on the facebook page, would encourage others to think about this question as well.

Bear in mind that this would be my last day experience in relation to food and drink, which I’ve based my life around, and obviously there would be other things (such as who would prepare the food, what kind of stereo system we would be listening to, having sex with various people, etc.) that won’t be covered (you’re welcome). Also, in relation to wine in particular, I’ve chosen things that I’ve already had because I need to know what to expect when mapping out this final experience.

That being said:


The Last Sunday



I would begin this day, at dawn, after about twelve hours of sleep to insure that I wouldn’t have a hangover. The setting for this final experience would be a house on a lake in the Maine woods, around late October. A walk in the woods, getting stoned while listening to “Blackwater Park” by Opeth on my headphones, would set the tone for the day and get me hungry enough to take down the extraordinary amount of food I have planned.

The first course after the walk would be a bowl of Vietnamese Pho, accompanied by a bottle of 2004 C.H. Berres Riesling Spatlese “Urziger Wurtzgarten,” which is definitely a little young to go, but then again, so am I. After finishing the bottle and listening to “Jar of Flies” by Alice in Chains, I’ll be ready to see my friends.

A group of about thirty people would arrive for course number two, which would be Iranian Osetra caviar served with farm-fresh soft-boiled eggs and brioche toast. We would enjoy magnum after magnum of vintage Krug and Salon Champagne, all kept cold in an old claw-foot bathtub full of ice. I think “Siamese Dream” by Smashing Pumpkins would probably fit my mood at this point.

A few hours later lunch would be served outside on a large porch overlooking the lake (did I mention that the house had one of those?) We would begin by enjoying bowls of creamy tripe soup with lemon & tarragon, followed by pork ribs and spicy macaroni & cheese. Normally this meal would need some greens, but this is my last day on earth, so fuck it. I think I would go with something simple and cold, like Commanderie de Peyrassol Rose, with this course. I know that many would choose beer, so it will be served for those who so desire. A playlist of various “Yacht Rock” artists would keep things smooth and entertaining here, and would eventually lull us into a brief nap period.

I would like to wake up to “Edge of the World” by the Faith No More, along with some hot Genmaicha tea and then maybe a little more weed. Now it’s time for afternoon snack number one: Foie Gras & Blood Sausage tarts inspired by the one I had at Au Pied du Cochon in Montreal. A few bottles of St. Joseph from Yves Cuilleron would put me us back on track and prepare people for the feast that lay ahead.

At this point I would break away with a small group and let the party go on without us for a few hours while we partake of snack number two: “Nyotaimori.” We would enjoy several pieces of sushi off of a beautiful Japanese woman’s naked body, served with four bottles of Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo.

As we rejoin the group for dinner, I would turn over the DJ responsibilities to my friend Katie, with the unspoken agreement that at some point we would hear “Home Sweet Home” by Motley Crue.

The final feast would start with Tom Kha Gai soup, served with 1990 Dr. Burklin Wolf Riesling Auslese Trocken. After that we would enjoy crispy fried veal sweetbreads washed down with several glasses of 2004 Shafer Frohlick Riesling Spatlese. I would probably need to make a drunken speech at this point, assuring everyone that there’s “only two more courses and then you don’t have to eat for a week as far as I’m concerned, I’ll be dead.”

The main course will be braised lamb shanks, that will be served with nan bread and hand-rolled israeli couscous cooked in almond milk. For this segment we will serve various magnums of Cote-Rotie, Vacqueyras, and Gigondas, hand-picked by my roommate. I would now begin to interfere with the music, requesting songs and then changing my mind halfway through.

I can’t think of any dessert I would enjoy more than crepes with Dulce de Leche, just like I had in Argentina. No matter how painfully full I am, I will be able to eat this dish. As the hour draws near, I think I might munch some psychedelic mushrooms and wash them down with a half bottle of old Trockenberenauslese.

Now that I should be pretty detached from any kind of reality, the day is almost over. At the last few minutes, I would like to be fed something disgusting, such as a bowl of English Peas and a warm glass of cheap rum, to make my transition a little easier…..



photo of myself by Zack Bowen

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Mr. Panda is Here to Stay


It’s Official. Mr. Panda is the new mascot for Portland Food Coma!

After facing stiff competition from Mr. Neglected Plant, Mrs. Microplane Grater, Captain Scallion, Ms. City of Portland 30 Gallon Trash Bag, and Admiral Wine Cork, Mr. Panda has emerged victorious and to celebrate, Gemma (tattoo artist responsible for the Bacon Cross) and I decide to take him for ice cream.
I was already covering local ice creams for an upcoming magazine feature, so we decide to make the epic journey from Portland to Brown’s Old Fashioned (232 Nubble Rd.) in York Beach, over an hour away.
The original plan involved very loud music and a mini-car-dance-party on the way down, but due to both of us being brutally hungover we just settled for pleasant conversation. It was all smooth sailing until we got to York, when fucking Google Maps almost got us kidnapped by Carnies.


It seemed strange that we were being instructed to enter York’s Wild Animal Kingdom (still closed for the season) but I figured “hey, seems like a reasonable place to have an ice cream stand!” As we drove through, we began to feel like pilgrims in an un-holy land. Google Maps said to continue down the road, but the Carnies eyeing us suspiciously made me think otherwise. It was a lot like the scene in the movie “Goodfellas” where Robert De Niro is trying to convince Lorraine Bracco to go down the alley and pick out some Dior dresses but is secretly planning to have her murdered. This may have been due to the fact that we were driving through the animal kingdom with an enormous Panda Bear in the back seat, but either way we decide to get the fuck out of there and reassess the situation.


I call Brown’s, and it turns out we were way off track. It’s funny how 90% of the time the iPhone GPS is spot on, and sometimes you just end up in the middle of nowhere. I accidentally admit to the person on the phone that we’d come all the way from Portland to have ice cream, which makes me feel like a shithead. His advice to us is to “drive towards the lighthouse,” which we found about twenty minutes later. Gemma and I agree on two things:
1. This is the longest journey either of us had ever made for ice cream.
2. Never to go near York’s Wild Animal Kingdom Again.
We both decide that Frappes would be helpful for our hangovers, and we were right. The quality of the ice cream is excellent, although they did not offer a bamboo flavor for Mr. Panda.